South west France and north-east Spain is the Basque Country where they speak an ancient and incomprehensible language, eat different food and have a different attitude to life.
The Basque culture runs right up to Biarritz and Bayonne in France. We had never visited this region so decided to have a look and drove down from Bordeaux.
The Basque Country itself is usually recognised as being an autonomous community in northern Spain. They have a distinct and celebrated cuisine, strong cultural traditions and a different language – Euskara – that pre-dates the Romance languages. For many years there was a strong movement for independence from Spain but since 2008 they have had their own government and a high degree of autonomy from Spain.
There is no border as such between France and Spain and as you drive through the only thing you notice is that the road signs change language, looking for signs to San Sebastian all you see are signs to Donostia, which is the Basque name for San Sebastian, we weren’t aware of that fact for some time!
It’s a great place to visit, and of course they speak French and Spanish as well as their own language but their whole approach to life is very relaxed and definitely not particularly Spanish. The small towns along the coast have a unique feel and the main centres, San Sebastian and Bilbao are very attractive.
The weather is good, the beaches fantastic and the sea warm despite it being the Atlantic. We stayed at the Mercure Monte Igueldo in San Sebastian. This hotel is stunning, more like a Spanish Parador than a French Mercure. Situated on a hill overlooking the fabulous bay of La Concha, the views are breathtaking; the rooms are great, the service and food are hard to beat. Plus with the fabulous roof top swimming pool we felt very happy. At €120 per room this hotel is a bargain.
San Sebastian is a city of 183,000 inhabitants and gets over 450,000 visitors every year. We went in June and it wasn’t at all overcrowded, with temperatures around 30 degrees the enormous golden sandy beach was busy but it’s so big there was loads of room for everyone.
Apart from its wonderful location, scenery and beaches they also have many festivals, from jazz to film, to dance and theatre, there always seems to be festival happening. Not surprisingly it’s going to be the European Capital of Culture 2016.
But it was its reputation for food that drew us here, of course with a total of 16 Michelin starred restaurants it’s very easy to eat extremely well, at a price!
The main attraction is, however, the enormous range of pintxos or tapas bars in the old town. Here you can wander from bar to bar and for a few euro eat some of the most ingenious and amazing little plates of delicious food. The range on some of the bar counters must run into 50 or more. They are very proud of this traditional form of dining which has now become highly sophisticated haute cuisine in miniature. Naturally every little pintxo come with a zurito, a small glass of beer or wine. Txakoli, is the local young white wine, it is served extremely cold and poured from a height to force fizz into the liquid. It’s deliciously acidic. A glass will set you back €1.50. We ate very well, almost too well, for around €25 each including the local wine.
With pintxos, the idea is to eat one or two of what each bar does best. A favourite was La Cuchara de San Telmo in a side street running off Calle 31 de Agosto– it is said that they produce the most delicious pintxos in town, such as foie gras with apple compote for €3, or cheese-laced risotto cremoso for €2.90.
There are plenty of museums and art galleries, as you would expect, plus some beautiful 16th century architecture in the old town. There are all the major shops and lots of boutiques selling some beautiful and expensive things, none of which you need but very tempting, leave your credit card at the hotel.
The main airport for the region is Bilbao, BA fly from Heathrow and easyJet from Stansted, or easyJet from Gatwick to Biarritz, which is just over the French border. There is a very good train and bus service to San Sebastian.
San Sebastian came as a huge surprise; we had been told that we just had to go but it wasn’t until we got there did we realise quite why.
For more information about San Sebastian, click here:
Simon Kirby, MP for Brighton Kemptown and Peacehaven, joined the UK’s largest cat charity at a Christmas reception to highlight how politicians can improve the lives of one of the nation’s favourite pets.
Mr Kirby joined more than 30 other MPs at an informal event hosted by Cats Protection at Portcullis House on Tuesday, December 8 to find out more about the charity, which helps over 205,000 cats every year through its network of over 250 volunteer-run branches and 32 centres.
Cats Protection’s Advocacy Manager, Jacqui Cuff said:“Cats are hugely popular pets, with 25 percent of the population owning one, so we were pleased to meet so many politicians who were keen to find out more about our work and what they can do to help.”
As well as rehoming cats, Cats Protection is the leading authority on cats and helps people better understand their needs. The charity also promotes and supports neutering as the only effective way to reduce the number of unwanted and abandoned cats.
Earlier this year, the charity launched its Manifesto for Cats to outline a string of measures which would improve the lives of the UK’s estimated 11.1 million cats, including controlling the breeding and sale of cats, banning snares, and ensuring more owned cats are microchipped.
Simon Kirby MP, who owns a ginger cat called Mango, said: “I am always pleased to support Cats Protection and I will continue to help them in their tireless work to bring about changes to improve cat welfare in the UK.”
Cats Protection also gave MPs the chance to have their photo taken with its giant kitten cutout, and shared its own take on a seasonal classic with its 12 Nays of Christmas compilation of tips for keeping cats safe during the festivities.
They are:
♦ Twelve gifts a-giving Make sure that any toys you buy your cat for Christmas are feline-friendly. Choose ones with embroidered features as opposed to plastic and glass ones which can come off. If you get your cat edible gifts, only buy special pet treats.
♦ Eleven things a-choking Avoid using tinsel and ‘angel hair’ as these can get stuck in cats’ throats. If your tree is real, vacuum around it frequently – as well as being a choking hazard, pine needles can hurt cats’ feet and cause infections.
♦ Ten cords a-shocking Electrical cords for fairy lights could be mistaken for toys or prey, so keep them covered up to avoid disaster.
♦ Nine candles burning Keep candles out of your cat’s reach to avoid them being knocked over or causing her an injury.
♦ Eight gifts a-miaowing Never give cats as presents unless this has already been agreed with the recipient. It goes without saying that cats are a commitment beyond the festive season and are not to be treated as novelty gifts.
♦ Several toxic plants A number of festive plants are potentially fatal to cats, including mistletoe, holly, ivy and Christmas roses so choose carefully and keep them out of the reach of moggies. For more information on which plants may be harmful to your cat, click here:
♦ Six baubles swinging Cats may well be tempted to tap dangling decorations, so it’s best to avoid glass baubles as they could shatter.
♦ Five dressed-up cats Do not be tempted to dress your cat up. You may think it makes him look ‘cute’, but he’ll only feel stressed.
♦ Four calling guests Having friends and relatives to visit is part and parcel of the Christmas period, but your cat may not wish to join in with the festivities. Ensure that she has a quiet room to herself with her food, water and litter tray easily accessible.
♦ Tree water hazards If you have a real tree, the base should be a no-go area for puss. The water may contain preservatives applied to the tree that are poisonous to cats. Cover up the base so he can’t get at it.
♦ Two turkey bones Restrict food treats to a small amount of boneless turkey for her Christmas dinner. Some rich foods – like chocolate – are toxic to cats and should definitely be off the menu.
♦ A kitten stuck up a tree To kittens in particular, the Christmas tree is a toy-toting gift in itself. Discourage your feline friend from climbing it, but also ensure that its base is as sturdy as possible in case.
14 teams from 7 different nations participated in the 2nd World AIDS Day Indoor Football Tournament, hosted in Munich by Team Munich Streetboys on November 28.
BLAGSS Football Team
Brighton was represented by a team from Brighton BLAGSS who after a slow start to the tournament came a respectable 9th.
Fourteen teams from Great Britain, France, Turkey, Germany, Slovenia, Italy and Czech Republic battled it out on three indoor pitches, with the trophy being won by VorspielSSL Berlin e.V. Tournament hosts Team Munich Streetboys were runners up.
The trip from Brighton was organised by Elliot Toms who travelled with some of the squad and supporters to Munich by Eurostar visiting Paris for lunch on the way out and staying a night in Brussels on the return journey. The rest of the team flew from Gatwick and everyone stayed at Hotel Regent opposite the main train station for the duration of the trip.
VorspielSSL Berlin e.V, winners of the trophy
The Golden BootieAward was awarded to Besi Ledward who scored 9 goals with Paul Gustafson who scored 7 goals taking the runners up Carpet Slipper Award.
After the tournament all teams dined together at a traditional Bierkeller and later in the evening trophies were awarded to the winning teams from Berlin and Munich at NY Club in the city centre.
The event was organised by Team Munich Streetboys and 2,100 Euros raised for the Munich AIDS Association.
For more information about Munich Streetboys, click here:
For information about BLAGSS Football, click here:
Switchboard, the national LGBT+ helpline, teams up with Channel 4’s Dr Christian Jessen for an unprecedented national GP programme.
Over the last 12 months the national charity Switchboard has been working on an ambitious project to send a Switchboard poster to every GP surgery in the country.
Switchboard will be posting 10,000 posters to clinics to raise awareness of the types of support on offer to members of the LGBT+ communities and their friends and families. The poster is accompanied by a letter of support from Dr Christian Jessen, the well-known TV personality from shows including Embarrassing Bodies.
The poster campaign has been made possible with the support of global law firm Norton Rose Fulbright which printed the 10,000 posters free of charge.
Switchboard, whose high-profile patrons include Tom Daley, Mark Gatiss and, most recently, the writer and broadcaster Vicky Beeching, runs a national and confidential help line and online instant message service, staffed entirely by volunteers who are there to support the LGBT+ communities and anyone who has questions around sexuality and/or gender identity.
The poster details some of the reasons patients might want to contact Switchboard, such as sexual health, family relationships, coming out or gender identity.
With the tagline, Offering calm words when you need them most, the poster also features the different ways people can contact Switchboard, including the contact number for the help line, 0300 330 0630, and web address where users can access instant messaging, www.switchboard.lgbt.
Dr Christian Jessen
Speaking about his involvement in the campaign, Dr Jessen said:“I’m delighted to be helping Switchboard with this initiative. I know that patients come to see us doctors when they’re not only worried about their physical health, but when they have concerns about their mental, emotional or sexual health as well.”
“Questions about sexuality and gender identity are often associated with teenagers, but these issues can affect people of all ages. I hope doctors display this poster in their waiting rooms so those in need can access the help they need.” “I also hope doctors will find Switchboard useful to refer patients to if they need it.”
It’s been a busy year for Switchboard, which has been offering support to the LGBT+ communities for more than 40 years.
In June the charity underwent a major rebrand, changing its name from LLGS (London Lesbian and Gay Switchboard) to Switchboard.
The charity’s co-chair Nuala O’Sullivan says this poster initiative is another way the organisation continues to help people in the LGBT+ communities, as well as the straight community.
Nuala, said:“We’re always trying new ways to reach the people who may need some support. We recognise that GPs have lots of priorities that they have to juggle every day, so we’ve launched this campaign to make their jobs, and their patients’ lives, a little easier.”
Dave Maher, Switchboard’s other co-chair, added:“At Switchboard we promote a positive attitude to being lesbian, gay, bisexual and trans. We’re confidential too and welcoming, supportive, non-judgmental. All our volunteers are also committed to discussing safer sex to prevent the spread of HIV and other sexually transmitted diseases.”
To call the LGBT+ Switchboard in London, telephone: 0300 330 0630
Changes proposed to existing library services in the city are the subject of a widespread consultation with residents.
Should Hove Library be combined with Hove Museum?
The council is looking at new ways of keeping and improving services against a climate of reduced funding for the local authority.
Resources will reduce across the council by about a third, but libraries are looking at ways of retaining all 14 services in the city. Under current plans, none would close and some would be delivered differently with the potential of bringing services together.
Proposals are based on a detailed review of library services carried out with library users and the wider public. They include opening up access to libraries seven days a week through the Libraries Extra initiative with a mix of staffed and unstaffed days which would increase library opening hours from 362 to 592 per week.
There are proposals to increase libraries use by local schools, community groups and partner organisations to provide activities and resources not previously available to people in their local library.
Residents will be asked their views on:
♦ Combining Hove Library with Hove Museum to create a new Community Cultural Centre for Hove in an extended building;
♦ Moving Hollingbury Library in with the Children’s Centre and
♦ Sharing services at Westdene which would provide an extra classroom for the primary school
The consultation is also asking people to say how the council could improve digital access, target services to individual groups and involve volunteers. The home delivery service could be expanded, with volunteers providing a more individual service to people in residential accommodation and sheltered housing.
Cllr Alan Robins
Councillor Alan Robins, lead member for libraries and culture, said:“Nothing has been decided and we want as many people as possible to take part and give us their views on the best way of providing comprehensive, efficient and modern services.
“This is all about the libraries’ service, rather than the buildings from which they are delivered. Hove Library, for instance, was designed for residents in 1908 when children were not allowed in libraries and newspapers were tied to the desks and had to be read standing up. Some older buildings actually make it more difficult to provide a 21st century service and we want to make sure we are meeting the needs of all our residents with the best services we can provide.”
Residents will also have the opportunity to comment on plans for buildings such as the Hove Museum extension when they are submitted for planning permission.
Library services have to save £1.34 million over the next four years. The council as a whole has to save around £70 million.
Consultation runs to, February 16, 2016 and the results and final proposals from the Libraries Plan will go before the council meeting in March.
Today, Human Rights Day, the Equal Rights Trust has launched My Children’s Future, a film which highlights the devastating consequences of laws implemented in 27 countries which deny women the ability to pass on nationality to their children.
My Children’s Future follows the stories of women and their families affected by gender discriminatory nationality laws in Madagascar and Nepal. In one way or another, their human rights have been denied; they have been left stateless, unable to access essential rights such as education, healthcare and jobs.
14-year-old Neha from Nepal, said:“Our plans, aims, goals, our jobs and our studies are restricted, and it is very sad…we are in a state of statelessness.” Neha’s mother raised her alone and was unable to pass on nationality to her.
Without nationality and an identity card, those affected are also at risk of being arrested and are unable to travel freely. Furthermore, mothers of these children often suffer from depression and feel a sense of guilt and shame.
Sofia from Madagascar was abandoned by her husband when she was pregnant with her son, Yousef, and she has been unable to pass on her nationality him. Consequently, without nationality, he has been unable to work in well-paid legitimate employment. When he was sick earlier this year he had to suffer with the pain when the hospital tried to charge him a higher treatment fee for non-nationals. Today, he relies on Sofia to take care of him, his wife and their newborn child.
Sofia, said:“I would like him to get a job, a degree, to become a mechanic…so that he can have a stable situation – that is what I want for him.”
In the last decade over 10 countries have reformed their laws. My Children’s Future also looks at two of these countries – Indonesia and Kenya – highlighting some of the benefits of reform.
Changing just a number of small provisions in the laws of countries like Madagascar and Nepal would drastically improve the lives of hundreds of thousands, particularly those who are socio-economically disadvantaged.
Executive Director of the Equal Rights Trust, Dimitrina Petrova, said:“This film draws attention to not only the situation in Madagascar and Nepal but to the other 25 countries with gender discriminatory nationality laws. They must address the fact that these laws are fuelling statelessness, trapping thousands in poverty, and doing little to promote equal rights for all.”
My Children’s Future calls on partners around the world to join the Global Campaign for Equal Nationality Rights, a coalition formed last year by the Equal Rights Trust, UN High Commissioner for Refugees, Women’s Refugee Commission, Institute of Statelessness and Inclusion, and Equality Now to eliminate gender discrimination in nationality laws.
The Pink Humanist is an online magazine published by the UK LGBT charity the Pink Triangle Trust (PTT).
It features topics of special interest to those who identify as humanists, atheists,, freethinkers, secularists and sceptics in the LGTB communities and those who support them.
The latest (Winter 20015/16) issue gives details of how PTT funding is helping a Ugandan Humanist organisation, HELU (Humanist Empowerment of Livelihoods in Uganda) to assist vulnerable girls and educate children.
In “The challenge of atheism in contemporary Zimbabwe”, Nigerian human rights activist Leo Igwe, who founded the Nigerian Humanist Association, speaks to two sceptics who describe the difficulties of “coming out” as non-believers in the country, and Stuart Hartill writes about the unexpectedly fast progress being made towards LGBT equality on the Isle of Man.
The issue also contains the fascinating account of eccentric gay Transylvanian, Franz Baron Nopcsa von Felso-Szilvás, born in 1877, who is today considered the father of paleobiology through his dedicated research into dinosaur bones.
Other features include an examination of LGBT rights in Greece and Tasmania, a review of a new biography of gay atheist code breaker Alan Turing entitled Prof: Alan Turing Decoded and an introduction to a new book – The Adventures of a Happy Homosexual: Memoirs of an Unlikely Activist – by the President of the UK National Secular Society, Terry Sanderson.
The current, as well as past issues of the magazine can be downloaded in pdf format from The Pink Humanist website (www.thepinkhumanist.com).
Additionally, individual articles can be accessed directly from the site’s home page.
To download it as a pdf document, click here: go to Archived Issues then Back Issues and put the cursor on any cover. In the top left corner you will see click here to download pdf.
To download the current issue of Pink Humanist, click here:
Eric Page is seduced by the sights, sounds and colours of this often overlooked South American gem.
Nestled in the Bay of Santos, on the Bahian Coast, wrapping in outstanding beaches, a myriad of islands, forests, natural wonders and a seriously vibrant city culture, Salvador is everything you’ve heard Brazil can be, but often overlooked as everyone goes to Rio.
Salvador is better, smaller, easier to navigate, safer by far and has a laid back vibe of sensual enjoyment that is famous even among the Brazilians. With a population that is 98% black or mixed this is the original capital city of Brazil and one of the oldest places in South American, settled by the Portuguese in 1500.
Pelourinho
The old quarter of the city is on a par with Havana in Cuba or Cartagena in Colombia; dense, colourful with some jaw-dropping architectural treats, lively squares and the ubiquitous churches, convents and grand houses, most of them now museums or galleries.
It’s a world heritage site, built up on the old cliffs overlooking the thrusting, glittering skyline of the more modern parts of the city, and is one of the most beautiful colonial centres in the whole of South America.
Pelourinho
You can spend many a day wandering, eating, looking, buying, talking, dancing and doing the thing that locals seem to spend their whole days doing: smiling and flirting.
I’d always wanted to visit Bahia since listening to Arthur Lyman with my grandmother. The city is remarkable; a modern, inspiring, crumbling colonial area of breath-taking magical realism and a sense of animation and exoticness. I love South America, Brazil is exciting but Salvador is something else.
Once the magnificent capital of Portugal’s great New World colony, Salvador is an Afro-Brazilian jewel. It’s brilliantly hued centre is a living museum of 17th and 18th century architecture and gold-laden churches. Salvador has a tropical climate throughout the year with the humidity and heat relieved by the winds blowing in from the ocean.
Salvador will seduce and surprise you, I fell in love with the place, skating down the seafront along the palm-lined boulevards, stopping to drink fresh coconut water and eat some fried shrimp patties, watching the huge dark sexy men jog by, the monkeys playing and hot tropical sun warming my skin, feeling a sense of excitement and frisson of interest that’s often missing from a city holiday.
With the pound so strong at the moment it makes this tropical destination very cheap and astonishingly good value. I took the local buses all over the city, which are fast, furious and a seriously cheap way to experience everyday Brazilian life, just avoid them at the rush hours unless sweaty frottage delights you.
Pelourinho
Wandering the cobblestoned streets of Pelourinho, gazing up at the city’s wonderful streets and squares, I was transported. It’s packed with creative artistic shops, schools of music, dance and capoeira. These pastel-coloured 17th and 18th century buildings still have a real community feel. Pelourinho is the location for music, dining and nightlife. It felt like I was walking around in a novel that had come to life. It’s a stunning place, and the heat, tropical trees, sexy people and colourful clothes are enchanting – I swear I glimpsed Carmen Miranda giving me a sultry look and the people are seriously friendly.
Relax, wander, explore, there’s a visible police presence everywhere so it feels safe and it’s a superb place to stop, grab something to eat and just watch the world go by. Food is a mix of Brazilian and African cuisines, with an abundant use of coconuts, ginger, hot peppers, shrimp, spices and flavourful dendê oil, made from palms. I walked all over the city, sampling the food stalls, the ladies that run them take pride in their food and their reputations.
Salvador (and Brazil) in particular gets a bad press for violence and crime. There is a level of poverty but if you’re considerate with a little common sense you’ll be fine. Avoid flashing your bling or super-expensive tech and avoid dark alleyways and certain areas of the city after dark; taxis are cheap and reliable.
After a day of tropical sunshine, samba and the soft tropical breeze I relaxed considerably and happily got my camera out. Most folk speak some English, but you’ll need to speak Brazilian Portuguese to go off the beaten track.
Carnival
Barra, the main beach (it’s in the top ten of The Guardian’s urban beaches), is superb with soft sand facing west and everything stops for sunset. It’s a small but lush place, we wandered down at dawn to swim in the quiet clear waters then again at night to swim with the bats skimming the surface and fish jumping and swimming around us.
There’s sunbathing and boating, snorkelling, fishing, a beach gym and the volleyball men. Choose one of the ‘beach ladies’ who run the deck chairs, umbrellas, etc, they are friendly and a great source of local info. The beach is busy in the day, packed on the weekend and very cruisy always, both with sexy ‘working boys’ and sexy locals.
Salvador has a young gay and lesbian scene that is constantly changing with a lot of places to go and there’s an openness to Brazilian society and Salvador in particular that made it a comfy place to walk around holding my Bf’s hand and I saw lots of other folk doing the same, all genders, all types.
Sexuality, like race, is very fluid in Salvador – everyone has a mixed heritage and no-one defines themselves as black or white, most guys have their own degree of bi-sexuality and don’t define as gay or straight. Only 10% of people are gay in Salvador, but only 10% are straight too – the remaining 80% will be bi-sexual to some degree.
We explored the bars and clubs and enjoyed them, the saunas were interesting. Spartacus online has an up-to-date list, use taxis to visit them.
Carnival in Salvador runs from February 4 to 10 and is the biggest carnival in the world. Around two-million people participate in the Carnival Parades over six consecutive days and all night. Dozens of bands make a parade along the 2km parade route, playing on big trucks called Trios.
Carnival
In Rio you’re a spectator, in Salvador you’re the show, if you want full Brazilian spectacle, then Salvador is the place to go. It’s cheaper and easier to navigate than Rio. You can dance on the streets with the crowd for free – called pipoca, watch from a wide camarote balconies or you can dance on the Carnival inside a safety area cordão surrounding the Trio, protected by bouncers.
You need to buy a pass abadá, a colourful T-shirt from £50 to £250 per day, depending on the artist playing. Some include free drink and there’s more space to move and dance in the procession. If you don’t speak Portuguese be careful what you buy (see Carnival the easy way). It’s an eye-popping dance your feet off experience which has few rivals in the world for pure indulgent muscled buff fun.
Carnival is a very peaceful event – most incidents are just rips-off. Transportation changes dramatically during Carnival so stay in areas close to the Carnival Parades: Barra, Ondina, Vitoria and Pelourino.
Accommodation is almost always a seven-night package during Carnival, so be aware when booking flights.
Carnival at night
Salvador has everything you could want from a South American holiday: the long tropical beaches, the bustling exotic city, the old historical quarters, the food and pulsating daily life, islands and jungles to explore, the juxtaposition of thrusting new skyscrapers up tight against Favelas and painted colonial buildings, dark brooding churches gilded and decorated in high Baroque, a tangible excitement to your day and a great free zoo!
The friendly, optimistic and engaging people, the men who make your jaws/trousers drop and a real sense of being somewhere seriously different. It’s a heady mix. Salvador will stun, seduce and amaze you.
Carnival the easy way
If you would prefer to stay with some friendly British gay men in Salvador, who will sort out your Carnival visits, tickets and parties, and take you out and about to local beaches, bars and restaurants, then consider staying with Paul and Alasdair from House Guest Brazil.
Originally from Brighton, they have lived in Barra for over 10 years and they have a series of comfortable accommodation and travel options from six, nine or 12-day holidays to take all the stress and worry out of your first, or returning, trip to Salvador.
They’ll make sure you have the best, safest experience during your stay. You’ll be welcomed with your own exclusive parties to meet the locals and they’ll take you to rehearsals and events that tourists never see so you will really get to experience Carnival like a local!
To view their website for more information and prices, click here:
If you’re more independently minded, Airbnb offer some great places for a range of budgets. Right on the beach is Barra Pousada Noa Noa, very cool and run by a lovely couple. www.pousadanoanoa.com
Or for something more mainstream try the four star hotel Sol Express Hotel from £50pn. To book directly, click here:
INFORMATION
Direct nine-hour flights for Jan/Feb from Madrid or Lisbon (cheaper from Madrid) from £500 with AirEuropa, TAP or IBERIA, connect via Gatwick BA or EasyJet. Salvador is well-connected with internal flights and an excellent place to use as a base to explore Tropical Bahia and the northern Brazilian coastal states:
Over the last 12 months the national charity Switchboard has been working on an ambitious project to send a Switchboard poster to every GP surgery in the country.
The Pink Humanist is an online magazine published by the UK LGBT charity the Pink Triangle Trust (PTT).
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